Kalani's at Heavenly, Calif.

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Surf meets schuss at Kalani's, which opened last season at the base of the gondola at Heavenly Village in Lake Tahoe. Not so coincidentally, the name means "heavenly" in Hawaiian, and Kalani's menu—Hawaiian fusion cuisine—is as suited to shooting the chutes in Heavenly's Killebrew Canyon as hanging 10 at Oahu's Pipeline.

Fresh fish is flown in from the islands daily, and the menu includes not just favorites such as mahi-mahi and Kona lobster, but also uncommon catches such as opakapaka (pink snapper). Dishes such as Kalua pork are South Seas luau staples, but chef Kevin Martinez's preparation heads south of the border with quesadillas topped by mango-citrus salsa. The signature Pulehu baby back pork ribs play off Hawaii's paniolo (cowboy) traditions—they're grilled over an open fire for a smoky flavor. And don't miss après-ski: Hit the sushi bar for a Hawaiian roll filled with spicy tuna and a saketini, the house special.

DETAILS: 1001 Heavenly Village Way #26; 530-544-6100; kalanis.com

OCTOBER 2005