34,000 acres; 7,874 vertical feet; summit elevation 10,912 feet; 261 miles of trails; 238 named runs; 164 lifts, including the Vanoise Express cable car. Tickets: $48, Les Arcs only; $57, all-access Paradiski
The units at Arc 1950 have full kitchens, fireplaces and access to a fitness center, heated pool and hot tubs. Book through British tour company Erna Low ($835 per week, double occupancy; 011-44-2-07-584-28-41; ernalow.co.uk).
Café Hemingway's rustic French fare is a good bet (011-33-4-79-04-25-51). Try Les Chalets de l'Arc, just above 1950, for lunch (011-33-4-79-04-15-40). Belliou La Fumee, in a 500-year-old hunting lodge, is a favorite (011-33-4-79-07-29-13).
Fly to Geneva and rent a car for the three-hour drive to Les Arcs, or fly to Paris and take the high-speed TGV train (tgv.com/EN/) to Bourg St. Maurice (five hours), then connect by bus, cab or funicular.
Book your ski guide through Spirit 1950 ($220 for a half-day; 011-33-4-79-04-25-72; spirit1950.com).
Les Arcs, 011-33-4-79-07-12-57; lesarcs.com