Restaurant Review:<br>Moody's Bistro and Lounge

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Moody's Bistro and Lounge

Known simply as Moody's by the locals, this Truckee cafe-located 15 minutes from Squaw Valley-is a throwback to the French bistros of the 1950s. Set inside the historic Truckee Hotel (and named after its original owner), the almost 2-year-old restaurant works the lounge vibe with smoldering red-orange walls and colorful French poster art. Belly up to the burnished wood bar for cocktails, then settle into a deep velvet banquette. Or come later in the week for jazz performances on the small corner stage.Chef Mark Estee cooked at the famed James Beard House in Manhattan in February (an appearance sure to launch him to national renown). The dishes that garnered the invite? Ahi tuna four ways (sashimi, seared, tempura and poke), Maine lobster and trofie pasta with brown butter squash puree, and a trio of Colorado lamb. The house dessert, Moody's S'mores made with El Rey chocolate, likely didn't hurt his chances, either. 10007 Bridge Street, Truckee, Calif.; 530-587-8688; moodysbistro.com