Signpost: Mammoth Mountain

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MAMMOTH MOUNTAIN 3,500-plus skiable acres (inbounds); 3,100 vertical feet; summit elevation 11,053 feet; 384 annual inches; 150 trails; 27 lifts, including three gondolas, eight high-speed detachable quads and one six-pack. Tickets: $62; five-of-six-day pass (midweek, nonholiday) $228.

LODGING The cushy Intrawest condos in the new village are roomier than their cousins at Juniper Springs, but noisier ($210—$725). The slopeside Mammoth Mountain Inn has received a $1.5 million infusion in phase one of a much-needed remodel; ask for one of the renovated rooms ($155—$625). Historic Tamarack Lodge's quiet, simple cabins offer a serene mountain setting well out of the fray ($120—$450). 800-626-6684; mammothmountain.com

DINING Take the family to Roberto's for California Mexican; 760-934-3667. Take your deep pockets to Igor's for steaks; 760-934-1245. Shogun serves Mammoth's most sought-after sushi; 760-934-3970.

DON'T MISS Unbound, Mammoth's top-ranked terrain parks draw X Games champs and hopefuls from all over the continent. Afterward, head to Mammoth's famed Hot Creek for a soak.

GETTING THERE Airline service into Mammoth's airport (direct from Chicago and Dallas) is on hold while the legal objections of environmentalists work their way through the courts. Meanwhile, Mammoth is best accessed by car from Los Angeles (300 miles), Reno (165 miles) or Las Vegas (310 miles).

INFORMATION 800-626-6684or 760-934-0745; mammothmountain.com; Mammoth's Visitors Bureau: 888-466-2666