Almanac: Jackson Hole, WY

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Getting There Daily nonstop flights to Jackson are available from Chicago and Dallas on American, from Denver on United and from Salt Lake on Delta. If you don't rent a car, use the START public bus or Buckboard Cab (307-733-1112).

When To Go In late January and early February, when the air is coldest, the snow is dry, light and deep.

Sleeping In Slopeside lodging ranges from the fancy Renaissance Hotel and Spa to the frugal and friendly Hostel X. Spring Creek Ranch's luxury log cabins offer a spectacular Teton view, and the town of Jackson has all manner of lodging. Call Central Reservations at 800-443-6931.

Dining Out Get upscale cuisine and organic produce at the Snake River Grill, traditional European fare at Stiegler's and straight-up American steaks at The Range.

Après-Ski Two words: Mangy Moose. Ski in and stay in for the live bands, good beer and fun-loving crowd of recreation hogs. For local flavor try The Stagecoach in nearby Wilson.

Kicking Butt This is one place where you need not seek challenge. Top to bottom via the Hobacks will do the trick. Repeat as necessary.

Kicking Back Swim amidst waterfalls, soak in hot tubs and get all the pampering you need at the Renaissance's new three-story spa.

Activities In the town of Jackson, take a sleigh ride amidst a herd of 2,000 on the Elk Preserve, and visit the National Museum of Wildlife Art. Snowmobile and cross-country ski at the resort and in nearby Yellowstone National Park.

Don't Miss Watch the locals out-tough each other on skis and horseback at the annual Cowboy Ski Challenge in mid-February.

Vital Stats Terrain: 2,500 acres, 11 lifts; Vertical rise: 4,139 feet; Average snowfall: 402 inches; Ticket price: $56 (adult), $43 (ages 15-21); Season-pass price: $1,495; Information: 888-333-7766, www.jacksonhole.com.