Innsbruck and Saalbach Almanac

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GETTING TO INNSBRUCK Fly into Munich's airport, Franz-Joseph-Strauss-Flughafen, which is about 20 miles from the center of Munich. Rent a car, and make the drive to Innsbruck, which is a little more than two hours.

INNSBRUCK TO SAALBACH-HINTERGLEMM The 94-mile drive to Saalbach takes about two and a half hours. Budget at least three hours for the return trip to the Munich airport.

SKI AREA STATS The half-dozen ski resorts outside Innsbruck offer 56 lifts and 75 miles of trails. Lift tickets can be purchased separately or for the entire region. Multi-day discounts are available, and an all-area three-day pass costs roughly $68. Lodging guests in Innsbruck also receive the complimentary Club Innsbruck Card, good for free bus service and discounts. Axamer Lizum was the site of the slalom and GS Olympic events, while the Patscherkofel hosted the downhill. Saalbach-Hinterglemm: 125 miles of terrain; 3,600 vertical foot drop; 52 lifts; 20 percent snowmaking coverage; halfpipes, snowboard parks and a small hill lit for nightskiing. Lift tickets: $28 per day, and $78 for three days; the more days you ski, the lower the price. Tickets for children are half the adult price.

SLEEPING IN INNSBRUCK The five-star Goldener Adler, in the heart of Old Town, has been hosting guests since 1390. The rooms are modern and quite affordable, although the standard rooms are cozy by American standards. From the window of a first-floor restaurant that now bears his name, Tyrolean freedom fighter Andreas Hofer rallied the troops against Napoleon ($55-$85, half board); 011-43-512-57-1111; www.goldeneradler.com).

DINING IN INNSBRUCK The always-popular Alstadtstüberl in Old Town has been renovated and renamed Demgg (011-43-512-58-2347). Some patrons say it lost its charm, but the kitchen is still first-class. The wood-paneled Weisses Rössl (011-43-512-58-3057) is a must for Tyrolean fare.

SLEEPING IN SAALBACH-HINTERGLEMM The four-star Berger's Sporthotel is lively and has an outdoor pool ($70-$100, half board; 011-43-6541-6577; www.bergers-sporthotel.at). The three-star Hotel König ($45-$57, half board; 011-43-6541-6384; www.hotel-koenig@at) is family-run and adjacent to the kids' slopes. It also has day care. Therisia is Hinterglemm's finest hotel and great for families ($65-$102, half board; 011-43-6541-7414; www.hotel.therisia.co.at).

DINING AND APRÈS-SKI IN SAALBACH-HINTERGLEMM Hotel Sonnleiten for upscale dining in Saalbach. For true fondue, try the downstairs Knapperkeller on the main street in Hinterglemm. For après-ski, just follow the loud music and crowds. In Saalbach, après starts at 3:30 at the Hinterhagalm; the Backstatt Stall is also worth a stop. Later, if you feel like dancing, try the Londoner.

OFF-HILL ACTIVITIES A week in Innsbruck may allow you to soak in all the museums. If you have extra time, the Swarovski crystal works is nearby in Wattens.

A GREAT DEAL Ski Europe has put together a $1,098 package just for SKI readers for Jan. 16-27, 2002. It includes round trip airfare from New York to Munich on Lufthansa/ United Airlines, three nights with breakfast in a three-star hotel in Innsbruck, seven nights in Saalbach-Hinterglemm with breakfast, plus dinner in a four-star hotel, 10 days economy rental car, local services and taxes. Other departure airports are available for an additional fee. For more information, call 800-333-5533, or visit www.ski-europe.com.

INFORMATION Austrian National Tourism Office, 212-944-6880; www.experienceaustria.com.