Sleeping In, Dining Out in the East: February 2002

Travel East
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Travel East

Dining Out

Up for Breakfast
Manchester Center, Vt.
(Near Stratton, Bromley)
Ask Manchester locals where to go for breakfast, and they'll say, "Up for Breakfast," before you've even finished the question. Located upstairs over the shops of Main Street, this acclaimed eatery has made a name by taking regular breakfast fare a step further. Owner/chef Michael Brandt and his wife, Minna, use fresh ingredients to create specialties like Eggs Scandinavian (poached eggs on smoked salmon, wilted spinach and sourdough toast, topped with stone-ground mustard hollandaise), Lingonberry Pain Perdu (sourdough baguette French toast stuffed with lingonberry cream cheese) and duck sausage. Even the pancakes go beyond buttermilk and blueberries-although you can order those, too. Pour Vermont maple syrup on cinnamon cakes filled with coconut, raisins, pineapple, carrots, apples and pecans. The orange juice is, of course, freshly squeezed, and caffeine choices range from French-pressed coffee (worth the extra 15 cents over regular) to maple lattes. Better still, everything on the menu is reasonably priced. Up for Breakfast is open seven days a week from 7 a.m. to noon on weekdays and until 1 p.m. on the weekends. But get there early. The nine tables fill up fast. Information: 802-362-4204.
- Peggy Shinn

Sleeping In

Little Lyford Pond Camps
Greenville, Maine
(Near Squaw Mountain)
Built in 1880 as a logging camp, Little Lyford Pond Camps still operates in much the same manner now as it did then. What sets it apart is the quiet. There are no fluorescent lights humming, no ice cubes dropping in a refrigerator, no oil burner going on or off, no cars passing by. It's a place where you can hear yourself think; where the wind alternately whispers and shouts; where the stars aren't diluted. The only access in winter is by ski, snowshoe or dogsled. The cozy cabins (adults $100, youths $55, meals included) appeal to those who long to escape the trappings of civilization. Wood stoves provide heat; fresh water comes from a five-gallon drum; and each cabin has its own private privy. Nor does anyone go hungry. Bountiful breakfasts and dinners served family-style in the main lodge, trail lunches to go and a seemingly bottomless plate of brownies provide all the fuel needed to explore the 30 miles of maintained, backcountry trails. One popular option is to ski to Gulf Hagas, the Grand Canyon of the East, then snowshoe the Rim Trail around it. Afterward, sip a mug of hot chocolate and relax in the cedar sauna, one of the few luxuries at this otherwise spartan retreat. Information: 207-280-0016, www.littlelyford.com.
-Hilary Nangle