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n 2004, sleepy Alta ripped out a triple and a double chair and replaced the aging lifts with a high-speed quad. It was a big move for a resort that prides itself on minimal grooming, stay-fresh powder, and a skiers-only policy. But don’t be thrown off by the progress. Alta controls the number of people it lets on the mountain, and the Collins quad only makes access to the resort’s 700 acres of steeps, bowls, and chutes six minutes faster—