PERCHÉ: The skiing in Italy’s iconic, cliffy peaks can be very hit or miss. Some years they get absolutely pounded, others they are as hard-packed as good espresso grounds. Watch the weather: If storms are settling here, book your ticket, because when it’s on in the Dolomites there is no more beautiful place to ski.
COSA: The Dolomiti Superski consists of 12 mountains (and 450 lifts) all on one pass. It is a complicated system of prices and options so—again—hire a guide. Cortina is the spot to be posh, while Sass Pordoi has serious terrain. Take a sampler tour with many stops for espresso, food, and wine. You can ski anywhere. Here, you must eat, drink, and live like an Italian.
DOVE: Head to the town of Moena for dancing until dawn.
KEY PHRASE: Fare una figura di merda. Figuratively, to mess up. Literally, don’t do it in the bidet, either.