WHY: Yes, as you’ve suspected, the Jay powder mystique is at least partly hype. The place does get more snow than the average Vermont resort, but don’t show up expecting guaranteed powder. This is Vermont, after all. What’s true is that Jay definitely has some great tree skiing. And when the snow’s good, the insanely steep shots off the front of the summit are do- able. Despite all the recent development, the Jay vibe is alive and feisty: Folks here love skiing and are willing to drive a little farther for it.
WHAT: Yummy Quebecois mummies in bikinis at the Pump House Waterpark. Which is huge and actually pretty awesome. Oh, and poutine.
WHERE: For nightlife, the resort hath thee in thrall, be- cause there’s nowhere else to go in these parts. Surrender, and make the Tower Bar your party central. You could do worse.