Almanac: Harbor Springs

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The Touring Gear (616-526-7152) rents bikes and will map out tours on back roads or along the lakeshore. Trout and salmon sport-fishing charters are offered by Ruddy Duck Charters out of Petoskey (616-347-3232).

Fore! Breathtaking Bay Harbor, 30 miles to the south, has been called the "Pebble Beach of the Midwest." Pricey but worth it (800-462-6963). (For more on golfing Bay Harbor, see page 69.)

Refueling Station Traveling north to eat Southwestern cuisine might seem weird, but the Blue Corn Grill (616-526-8000) mixes a mean margarita and serves stellar Mexican fare (located 5 miles north of Harbor Springs on State Road in Stutsmanville). For take-out lunches, Gurney's Bottle Shop in Harbor Springs is the pick.

On The Town The Legs Inn in Cross Village (616-526-2281) is unmatched for its funky mix of Polish food, live entertainment (from folk to blues), dancing and 100 kinds of beer. Sunday nights are best with the Jelly Roll Blues Band. Drive north up M-119 through The Tunnel of Trees.

Sleeping In For authentic Northern Michigan lodge decor, try the Birchwood Inn in Harbor Springs (800-530-9955). For the full resort treatment with golf and amenities, you can't beat Boyne Highlands (800-462-6963). If you're on a budget, the Best Western of Harbor Springs (616-347-9050) will fit the bill.

On A Rainy Day Visit the Andrew Blackbird Museum (616-526-2104), once the home of Andrew Blackbird, an Ottawa Indian historian and Harbor Springs' first postmaster.

Festivals Something about boats and water instills a strong sense of patriotism, and come July 4, the celebrations hereabout go long and deep. Two weeks later, the partying resumes during the Little Traverse Bay Regatta (July 23-25).

Information Harbor Springs Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 37, Harbor Springs, MI 49740; (616) 526-7999;