Almanac: St. Anton, Austria

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Population St. Anton 2,400; Arlberg Region 5,500

Property Values By law, only Austrians and EU citizens are allowed to own property in St. Anton.

Apartment Rent Resort workers get free or subsidized housing; visitors pay up to $2,000+/month for one bedrooms.

Main Businesses Tourism, some construction, dairy and timber

School Population 326

Local Ski Areas The slopes of St. Anton interconnect with the entire Arlberg.

Vertical Rise 4,921 feet

Skiable Area 160 miles groomed, 114 miles marked off-piste

Average Annual Snowfall 240 inches

Season Pass adults, $625; children under 16, $360

Lift Ticket adults, $34; children under 16, $21; 6 and under, free.

Best Local Events The world-famous Arlberg/Kandahar downhill. The World Alpine Championships (Jan. 28-Feb. 10) will be huge.

Locals' Favorite Restaurants The Dorfbackerei for coffee, pastries and sandwiches. The Einkehr for Tirolean gourmet cuisine. Instructors meet their favorite clients for dinner at the Hotel Fahrner Restaurant.

Locals' Favorite Hangouts At day's end, the Cafe Hoeferl fills with smoke and locals knocking down Red Bulls and beer. On-mountain the legendary, high-octane après scene at the Krazy Kanguruh amazes even party-hardened locals.

Best Places to Stay Luxe: the five-star St. Antoner Hof (011-43-5446-2910). Three and Four Stars: Montiola (011-43-5446-2302), Hotel Fahrner (011-43-5446-223632), Pirker Apartments (011-43-5446-2310). Budget: Bergwelt Pension (St. Jakob) (011-43-5446-2995).

Best-Kept Secret Off-piste lines to Stuben from Zurs that require a guide to find and navigate.

How To Get There Swissair flies direct to Zurich, and St. Anton is three hours east on trains that leave from the airport.

Information Tourist Office, A-6580, St. Anton Am Arlberg, Austria; 011-43-5446-37270,;;


In 1907, Hannes Schneider was hired as a ski instructor in Austria’s Arlberg region, four ski areas spread over six villages.  There, he began developing the Arlberg technique: the modern-day parallel turn.  Over the next few years, Schneider smashed the notion of skiing as cautious step turns.  It became about speed and flow.  And the Arlberg began drawing skiers who wanted to experience it for themselves.  Little has changed.  Since 1999, Swedish photographer Mattias Fredriksson has shot in the Arlberg at least once a year.  He goes for the suffocating powder, narrow tree fields, and cliff-dotted terrain.  But he also goes to pay respects to the tracks laid down before him.  “Hannes Schneider showed people from all around the world the parallel turn,” says Fredriksson.  “I skied with Pep Fujas, Henrik Windstedt, and Sean Pettit in the same area he taught in.  that was pretty cool for me.”  The photos that follow, all of them Fredriksson’s, are a tribute to the area, its history, and skiing as we know it. Pictured: Stina Jakobsson above the village of Zug.

St. Anton, Austria

Inbounds descents down powderfields up to five miles long dump you in the middle of the Tyrolean frescoes and church steeples of a too-cute ski village.