And still no Eastern resort can dethrone the perennial champion. Tremblant owns the top spot in the East for another season. Survey results again show that readers are less likely to have been there than other Eastern resorts, but those who have are sold on the singular experience of Tremblant, with its dense bustling village and Quebecois culture, color, and sense of place. Nobody beats it for dining, on hill or off. Even the cafeteria food here must please sophisticated Quebecois palates. Lodging ranks No. 1 as well, thanks to both quantity and quality of beds. “Western amenities brought East,” says one reader. There’s plenty to do besides ski (No. 2 in Off-Hill Activities and Après). And the service is terrific (No. 2). Crowds are the price of popularity, but if you can beat them, the skiing’s a lot of fun, with 654 skiable acres and three distinct terrain pods to explore. Complaints? “Crazy expensive” is a common refrain. And the weather? “This far north, I know I shouldn’t be surprised, but it was cold.” In the end, it’s a guilty pleasure, irresistible even to the hardcore. “I don’t want to like it, but I can’t help it.”
On-Hill Lunch >> Le Refuge, in a charming log cabin trailside about halfway down the Versant soleil area.
Off-Hill Restaurant >> It’s not Tremblant’s fanciest or most expensive, but La savoie serves up fondue and raclette in a warm, fragrant space.
Must Do >> We can’t think of another eastern ski resort with a casino right in the base village. Bring your fancy clothes and try your luck at the tables.