Resort Guide 2018: East #4
Remember your passports, and expect to be satisfied if you venture north of the 49th parallel in search of a ski vacation that feels like Europe without the tiny beds and cutthroat lift queues. Quebecois culture? Beware of stereotypes, of course. Unless they’re delicious ones.
Readers report, as you’d expect, that Quebecois cuisine, which has had 350 years to practice since it moved here from France, is Tremblant’s signature strength. You might also expect that a French-speaking people would bring a relaxed approach to the sport, where skiing is how you get from table to table. Tremblant is purpose-built for that kind of hedonism, with an enchanting slopeside pedestrian village that’s packed with brasseries, creperies, cafes, boutiques, and bistros. Tremblant’s hotels, readers report, are still the best in the East. And if the weather’s bad, there’s tons of off-hill activities (families love the huge waterpark). If all of it offends your puritanical sensibilities, Tremblant’s Laurentian Mountains terrain, surprisingly sinister in places, is happy to exact penance from bell to bell. Readers promise it’ll be Canada-cold out there. Just try not to enjoy the beautiful views. But maybe it’s better to indulge, non? “Great restaurants, great lodging, lots of activities for the kids.” “Après scene is unmatched.” “Joie de vivre!” The only bad part of visiting Tremblant: Worrying about what they must think of us when they see our ski-lodge food.
La Source, the huge waterpark. And don’t forget, Quebec school breaks are typically a couple weeks after American ones. Perfect.
- Try your luck at the Casino de Mont- Tremblant, in the heart Versant Soleil.
- Sign up for First Tracks and get on the slopes 30 minutes before the first chairs officially start to spin. Dig into breakfast at the summit, too.
- Take a spin on the skating rink in front of picturesque St. Bernard Chapel. Rentals are free if you’re staying in the village. Warm up by the adjacent fire pits and enjoy the village buzz.
Mid-February means big crowds at U.S. resorts. Not so here. Quebec’s school break is typically the first week of March.
Player? Try a night out at Casino Mont-Tremblant. Its striking architecture anchors the Versant Soleil base area.
The efficiency of Tremblant’s lift system, including the commuter lift that connects the top and bottom of the base village.
So hard to choose, but the hottest tables are at Mille Pâtes (Italian/pas- tas), Seb Lartisan Culinaire (Quebe- cois/new Canadian), and La Savoie (fondue/raclette).