Fall Skiing: Solden, Austria

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This is Edelweiss country: lush green valleys, snowcapped peaks, and lederhosen. In September, ski 1,900 vertical feet of rolling terrain on two glaciers. Expect to see the likes of Eberharter and Maier gearing up here. The FIS World Cup Opener is October 25-26.

Opening Dates: Open year-round.

Snow: The top elevation (10,680 feet) helps maintain the snowpack.

Terrain: The high-alpine, above-tree-line terrain is divided between two glaciers: Tiefenbach and Rettenbach. To get to the mellow cruisers of Tiefenbach, you ski through a tunnel called the Golden Gate. On Rettenbach, T-bars sling you up slopes steep enough to host World Cup GS. On the descent, ski under a massive wall of ice called the Kühlschrank.

Deals: In September, All Mountain Vacations offers seven nights at the three-star Hotel Sonnenvilla Anna, round-trip transfers from Munich, breakfasts, and dinners for $655 (all-mountain.com).

Plan B: Rent a bike and ride the access road. The downhill is a white-knuckle descent with 180-degree chicanes back into the Otztal Valley.

Nightlife: Hoist a heffe at Bierhimmel, then scale its indoor climbing wall. Later, dance on tabletops at the Table-Dance Bar.

Info: soelden.com, 43-5254-510-0


In 1907, Hannes Schneider was hired as a ski instructor in Austria’s Arlberg region, four ski areas spread over six villages.  There, he began developing the Arlberg technique: the modern-day parallel turn.  Over the next few years, Schneider smashed the notion of skiing as cautious step turns.  It became about speed and flow.  And the Arlberg began drawing skiers who wanted to experience it for themselves.  Little has changed.  Since 1999, Swedish photographer Mattias Fredriksson has shot in the Arlberg at least once a year.  He goes for the suffocating powder, narrow tree fields, and cliff-dotted terrain.  But he also goes to pay respects to the tracks laid down before him.  “Hannes Schneider showed people from all around the world the parallel turn,” says Fredriksson.  “I skied with Pep Fujas, Henrik Windstedt, and Sean Pettit in the same area he taught in.  that was pretty cool for me.”  The photos that follow, all of them Fredriksson’s, are a tribute to the area, its history, and skiing as we know it. Pictured: Stina Jakobsson above the village of Zug.

St. Anton, Austria

Inbounds descents down powderfields up to five miles long dump you in the middle of the Tyrolean frescoes and church steeples of a too-cute ski village.