It's unclear exactly how many of Alagna's 440 residents are related to Andrea Enzio, but even his immediate clan is huge. "Oh, oh, there are many of us," he says. "The brothers of my father are eleven boys and two girls. And in my generation, we are 29 cousins." It is very clear, however, which of the Enzios has the biggest hair, the biggest skis, and the biggest coglioni (cojones). The head of Alagna's guide corps (guidealagna.com) may be soft-spoken and mop-headed, but Andrea, 36, also has a penchant for first descents on 55-degree walls-including the first snowboard descent of the 8,000-vertical-foot Marinelli Couloir, the longest in the Alps.