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Place the fondue pot on the stove over high heat. Pour in the wine and add the white pepper and nutmeg. Bring to a simmer, then add cheese. “At this point, you have to stir constantly,” says Oswald. “Otherwise the cheese will burn.” Oswald’s most important advice-or perhaps superstition-about stirring: “Always stir clockwise. I don’t know why. But if you don’t, it won’t be as good.” Once the cheese is melted, add slurry until proper thickness is achieved and simmer for a minute. “It should look like bubbling lava,” says Oswald. “Not too thick, not too thin. If you dip a piece of bread in, the cheese shouldn’t drip too much.”
Just before serving the fondue, add kirsch. “Just turn the bottle upside down once. That’s enough.”
Serve with sautéed vegetables and raw fruit.