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How to Make Great Fondue

Fall Line

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There’s only one way

to improve upon a day of skiing the Alps with the European sun on your cheeks: an evening of dunking fresh, crusty bread into a cauldron of rich cheese fondue. And even if you’ve never felt an Alp sliding beneath your skis, the experience of making and eating authentic fondue is eminently mobile (whereas Alps tend to stay put). Just ask Bernd Oswald, an Austrian chef who’s cooked fondue for the Queen of the Netherlands, après-skiers in Austria’s Lech am Arlberg and, since 2001, diners at the Swiss Chalet restaurant in Vail, Colo., which serves more than five gallons of his specialty every night during ski season. Oswald was kind enough to let us peek at his kirsch-stained recipe book. Follow his lead and a certain mountain range will seem a lot closer.

DECEMBER 2004