From Denver, head west on I-70 to High-way 40 west.
Splayed across five mountains (Winter Park, Mary Jane, Vasquez Cirque, Vasquez Ridge, and Parsenn Bowl) and connected by a web of steeps that funnel into two base areas, 66-year-old Winter Park flaunts more diamonds than Paris Hilton's lockbox: Over half the chutes, glades, and zipper lines rank advanced or expert. And though Winter Park's trails are lousy with straight-lining flatlanders, groups like the mostly Front Range "Jane Gang have crushed cartilage and partied at the Mary Jane's Utah Junction Parking Lot since the worm-turn was hot. With Intrawest at the helm, expect expansions and resort-styled amenities. But plan on leaving respectably battered: This is a mogul skier's resort, and judging from bumper stickers created in 2002—Save Our Bumps—a prime piece of mogul ground it will remain.
From the Challenger double, race to cliff-littered Hole-in-the-Wall, where 10- to 15-foot drops line up three to a tier. Then funnel onto Trestle, a roller coaster of bumps, jumps, and boulder fields lined by sneak-away trees that harbor protected powder.
3 Days Later
Drop under the Timberline Lift at the top of Parsenn Bowl and traverse left to the Backside Parsenn gate for semisecret access to several unnamed tree runs. Boulder-pop the lower glades to the Vasquez valley floor.
Boarders love to rip the widely spaced glades on Willett's Way and Johnstone Junction in lower Parsenn Bowl.
Marquee Route: Flaunt your bumps finesse on Outhouse, a 2,660-foot-long test piece for ski patrol candidates (who must ski it nonstop, top to bottom). Last year—in a move that incited rebellion among bump skiers—the resort began split-grooming this main artery between Winter Park and Mary Jane. Off Broadway: Hug the treed edges of north-facing Gambler and Aces and Eights on Vasquez Ridge for soft, fall-line moguls long after the holiday revelers head home.
Exit the first gate on the Vasquez Cirque cat track and skirt south of Twin Cones toward the Zero Creek head-wall. Though avalanche-prone and blocked by a cornice with few access points, snow loads in several south- and east-facing chutes, ranging from 30 to 50 degrees, that dump into a boulder-strewn talus field. Hitch home on Highway 40.
Storms tracking out of the south often unload east of the Continental Divide. Head to Winter Park in February and March, when northerly systems catch in the upper Fraser Valley basin and recirculate for days.
At the sound of the three o'clock steam whistle (followed by Ozzy's pre—reality TV classic, "Crazy Train), head to the Derailer Bar for a Mary Jane Ale.
In town, try Basecamp Bakery, where every beignet and bagel is made from scratch pre-dawn. Come lunchtime, go for on-mountain aesthetics and a $12 burger in the Club Car at the Mary Jane base. For dinner, try Hernandos' whole-wheat pizza and micros, Untamed Steakhouse for meat, or Fontenots for spicy Cajun (all three are in Winter Park).
Up All Night
Every three weeks the Grand County Blues Society hosts legends like James Cotton and Tab Benoit at Smokin' Moe's Ribhouse and Saloon in Winter Park.
Slope-side two-bedroom condos at Zephyr Lodge (zephyr mountainlodge.com) run $500 per night. The Olympia Motor Lodge (olympia lodge.com) in downtown Winter Park, has doubles for $120.
Protect and stabilize your knee joints with anatomically engineered Pro Conditioning Tights from CW-X. ($80; cw-x.com).