Jackson Underground

Yeah, Jackson Hole is filled with burly mountain jocks and no-nonsense tourists who aren't afraid to throw back a few stout pints. Yet despite its hard-livin' cowboy image, the espresso-and-arugula crowd has gained a solid foothold. Don't worry, you'll still feel at home wearing your Carhartts.

Roll into Shades Café for caffeine and eggs Benedict. (75 S. King St., 307-733-2015) No time? Grab an Egg McCollister and a double espresso from The Village Café next to the tram. (307-732-CAFÉ)

Just the Calories: Billy's Giant Burgers grills half-pounders of local beef (they grind it in the back). Bill Clinton called it the "best burger in America," and that boy can eat. (55 N. Cache, 307-733-3279)
Put Some Sauce on That: A café with butcher paper on the tables, the Rendezvous Bistro offers healthy comfort food (the meatloaf rules). (380 South Broadway, 307-739-1100)
Bust Out The Plastic: To soothe the spouse you dragged into Corbet's, the Snake River Grill has 270 wines and an atmosphere so elegant it's like breathing valium. (Town square, 307-733-0557, snakerivergrill.com)

Up All Night
Suds: Named the number-one small brewer in North America in 2001, the Snake River Brewing Company has eight beers on tap and a big selection of pub fare. (265 S. Millward, 307-739-2337, snakeriverbrewing.com)
The Must Stop: Sure, the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar is a tourist joint-the saddles for bar stools, the line dancing-but that doesn't mean it's not worth moseyin' in for a glug of Snake River Zonker, a stout that'll put hair on your unborn kid's chest. (25 N. Cache St., 307-733-2207, milliondollarcowboybar.com)
Live music & Dance: Sunday nights are so busy at The Stagecoach Bar and Grill, locals call it "going to church." Bill Briggs-the first man to ski the Grand Teton-fronts a bluegrass band that's played every Sunday for 33 years. Too bad they can't serve drinks out the drive-up window anymore. (5755 W. Highway 22, Wilson; 307-733-4407)
The Dive: The Log Cabin Saloon has a sunken bar, Naugahyde chairs, and makeup mirror lights and dead animal heads on the log walls; it's one part Swingers, one part Bonanza and the spot for the post-wait-shift, Red Bull and Jà¤ger crowd. (475 N. Cache, 307-733-7525)

A cavernous joint crammed with all manner of Americana, the Mangy Moose is the wildest ski bar in Jackson. It also debunks an ugly Jackson myth: "Anyone who says there aren't pretty women in Jackson had better come meet our wait staff," says co-owner Jeff Davies. (Teton Village, 307-733-4913, mangymoosesaloon.com) For a mellower spot where avalanche beacons outnumber Palm Pilots, go the the Village Café bar, a low-ceilinged nook where dogs lounge in the corner and bartender Melissa Larsen has the Tetons tattooed across the small of her back.(420 Village Center, 307-732-CAFE)

Hostel X. ($50 for a room, $63 if four people sleep in it; 307-733-3415, hostelx.com)
Workin' Stiff: The Best Western Inn. (starting at $199; 800-842-7666, innatjh.com)
Bank Robber: The Snake River Lodge and Spa. ($150-$1,200 per night; 800-445-4655, snakeriverlodge.com)

Teton Gravity Research
clothing and DVDs. (307-734-8192, tetongravity.com)