Le Massif Essentials

Travel East

(All prices are U.S. dollars.)


Summit elevation, 2,645 feet; vertical drop, 2,526; skiable acres: 220; lifts: two high-speed quads, one fixed-grip double, onesurface lift; average annual snowfall, 260 inches.


Le Massif is 45 miles northeast of Quebec City on Route 138. From Boston: 400 miles. From New York: 575 miles.


The options are endless in Quebec: Chateau Frontenac (a five-star Fairmont property and the hub of the city; $105-$620; 800-441-1414, fairmont.com); Manoir Victoria (four-star amenities, historic charm; $65-$160; 800-463-6283, manoir-victoria.com); Hotel Clarendon (the city's oldest; creaky and cool, with a jazz lounge; $58-$185; 888-554-6001, familledufour.com); or Auberge du Quartier (three-star, clean and quiet, near Plains of Abraham;request upstairs room; $45-$65; 418-525-9726, quebecweb.com/adq). Near Le Massif, there are a few good options in the charming village of Baie-Saint-Paul, an artist colony by the river. TryLa Maison Otis (four-star, home of Le Scenario bar for après-ski; $100-$195 MAP; 800-267-2254, maisonotis.com) or La Grande Maison (three-star Victorian ambience; $88-$190 MAP; 418-435-5575, grandemaison.com). Anotherappealing option lies an hour beyond Le Massif: the magnificent Manoir Richelieu (five-star Fairmont grand hotel with casino and spa by the river; $165-$215, includes Le Massif lift tickets and breakfast; 800-441-1414; fairmont.com).


Quebec boasts more restaurants per capita than any other North American city, and you almost can't go wrong. Among them: Restaurant Saint-Amour (thoroughly high-end, with cuisine, ambience and prices to match; 418-694-0667); Le Cochon Dingue (or "Crazy Pig"; casual and affordable café fare, huge portions, lively ambience in the lower village; 418-692-2013); Le Café du Monde (classic French-bistro: mirrored walls, parquet tile, simple but excellent fare; 418-692-4455).


It's all or nothing, depending on whether you stay in the city or near the slopes. But there are a couple of good bars in Baie-Saint-Paul: Microbrasserie de Charlevoix, Coeur de Loup Lounge Billard, or Café des Artistes. For cigar aficionados, there's Pierre Narcisse. (Remember: This is Canada; you can buy Cubans.)


Near Le Massif, there is very little to do other than ski. In the city, cultural and historical richness abounds. One "must" is a ride on the Glissade.


Quebec City's famous Carnaval takes place the first half of February. It's fun but crowded. Otherwise, late February and all of March offer the best snow and weather.


Le Massif: 877-536-2774 or lemassif.com; Quebec City:quebecregion.com; Charlevoix region: tourisme-charlevoix.com.