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Photos from Kasmir

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An Indian Army soldier patrols  Gulmarg's base area.

An Indian Army soldier patrols Gulmarg’s base area.

Yaseen prepares for guiding while Gulmarg's porters sit idle.

Yaseen prepares for guiding while Gulmarg’s porters sit idle.

Try to find the Line of Control.

Try to find the Line of Control.

Scouting locations for a proposed McDonald's.

Scouting locations for a proposed McDonald’s.

A Kashmiri Photomat.

A Kashmiri Photomat.

Ido Neiger looking awfully Christ-like for a former Israeli commando with a hash smoker's cough and a powder addiction.

Ido Neiger looking awfully Christ-like for a former Israeli commando with a hash smoker’s cough and a powder addiction.

Yaseen's son prepares for a brisk day of no business.

Yaseen’s son prepares for a brisk day of no business.

Think of Gulmarg's terrain as Vail with more vertical—and the soothing sound of warfare in the distance.

Think of Gulmarg’s terrain as Vail with more vertical—and the soothing sound of warfare in the distance.

Until the gondola is completed, the ridge will remain a foot-serviced pilgrimage.

Until the gondola is completed, the ridge will remain a foot-serviced pilgrimage.

A gondola under construction.

A gondola under construction.