Ski Life, What's Cooking: Slow Bread, Fast Skiing

Fall Line

"You can't rush bread," says Art Wallace of Bigwood Bread in Ketchum, Idaho. "It takes time, patience and a feel for the dough as it passes from stage to stage." That, in a nutshell, is the secret behind the "you-gotta-taste-it-to-believe-it" quality of the hundreds of lusty loaves, boules, baguettes and focaccia he and partner Wolf Riehle bake daily. Then, of course, there's oven temperature, barometric pressure, humidity, altitude and the quality of ingredients to contend with. Bottom line: Customers reap the rewards of the duo's commitment. They stroll into the 3,200-square-foot warehouse-style bakery/cafe and peruse bread racks for the day's selections. Bigwood also offers nifty breakfasts, including challah French toast with maple butter, and Yukon-gold potato and portobello frittatas. Later, "freshies" (mozzarella, roasted red peppers and pesto on grilled sourdough) rule the lunch crowd.