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From the ramparts of the medieval Ljubljana Castle, which lords over Slovenia’s capital, you can see the city’s distinctive red roofs marching out to the horizon.
Kranjska Gora is Slovenia’s best known—and most modernized—ski resort. Every year its craggy steeps make or break World Cup GS racers.
Pri Vitezu restaurant is one of the oldest and most famous in Ljubljana.
Merchants’ stalls await customers in front of Kranjska Gora’s church.
Snowboarders, after riding at one of the four ski resorts that pepper the area’s 9,000 foot peaks, hike back to Bohinj.
In a sport with so little mystery left—where cheery mountain hosts in bright uniforms give you all the answers—I’m craving a little mystery. I want to ride a creaky double and make my way down on real snow.
I’m not in a hurry. The western countryside, riven as it is by snowy, 9,000-foot peaks and the stubborn geometry of hayfields, gives visitors little choice.
Bled’s four-star hotel Toplice.
Approaching Bled, I caught a glimmer of the town’s picture-postcard lake.
To ski in Slovenia is to get back to the sport’s roots. So don’t be surprised if your après-ski shuttle has horns and a cousin named Rudolph.
Down in the valley, thatch-roofed farmhouses glided by, lit from inside by fireplace embers. The smell of wood smoke was heavy. The snow fell in packets.
For authentic fare, head to Pri Martinu at the center of Kranjska Gora, or Pri Hrvatu in Bohinj.
The uphill ride takes about 20 minutes (including 2 transfers) and gives me flashbacks to Killington circa 1979.
To say that the lifts are not brand new is kind. And there’s not a lot of snowmaking above the first chairs.
A ski jumper at the world-famous Planica ski jump.
These pipes were handmade from Triglav’s mythical spruce trees.
Bridges over the Ljubljanica River date back to Roman times.
Legend has it that 300 years ago, Antonio Stradivari, regarded as the finest violin maker ever, sourced his resonant spruce from the Triglav forest.
The Gostilna Lectar Inn, en route to Kranjska Gora in the medieval town of Radovljica, offers hearty traditional fare.