Tremblant has had trails on both the north and south sides for decades, but they've expanded to the point where you can practically ski all 360 degrees. Most of the greens are on the south side (the side facing the village). If you're a beginner or an intermediate in need of a warm-up run or two, take the gondola to the top and try out La Crete, Bon Vivant and Nansen. You can then stick to the TGV, a quad that serves the upper half of the mountain, or head back to the bottom for more runs off the gondola.
Anyone looking for a little more challenge should start the day on the sunny side. Last season Tremblant added 20 percent more terrain off the eastern side of the mountain, called Versant Soleil. About 10 trails were designed to follow the natural contours of the mountain, mostly narrow winders and glades, all served by a high-speed quad called Le Soleil. Take a cruise down Franc-Sud, Toboggan and Tapecul to warm up in the early morning light, then do it again, only this time drop down into the glades of Brasse-Camarade or Bon Vieux Temps.
The north side catches early light. Take the Gondola from the village to the peak, where you can drop down a spread of two dozen trails, with even more on the western Edge. To the east (left as you face the north side), you'll find big bumps on black diamonds such as Banzai, Boiling Kettle and Geant.
In the afternoon stay south. The Gondola will take you to a wide range of trails. Pick from classics such as the Kandahar (named for one of the first and hairiest races in the world) or a narrow black chute called Fripp. The Flying Mile quad on the bottom half tends to attract fewer crowds, and, depending on wind direction, it can be more sheltered and therefore warmer.
Almanac: Tremblant, Que., Can.
Getting There Fly or drive to Montreal, and rent a car. Take autoroute 15 North to Sainte-Agathe, where 15 North merges with 117. Take 117 North past St.-Jovite, turn right on Montée Ryan, and follow signs for Tremblant.
When To Go Late March: There's plenty of snow, the weather's warmer, and crowds are minimal.
Sleeping In Budget: La Chouette. Mid-Range: Place St-Bernard. Luxurious: Chateau Mont Tremblant. Call Central Reservations at (800) 461-8711, or visit www.tremblant.com.
Dining Out La Forge (819-681-4900) serves creatively prepared fare such as Carpaccio of Atlantic Salmon marinated in single-malt scotch and rack of Quebec piglet with honey and shallots. Creperie Catherine (819-681-4888) puts anything you desire into its fresh breakfast crepes.
Après-Ski Everyone heads to Le Shack (819-681-4700) for beers and poutine, a Quebecois comfort food made of fries, cheese curds and gravy.
Old School A cruise down, Flying Mile¿Tremblant's original run.
New School Dynamite, opened in 1995, is said to be the steepest run in Eastern Canada.
Activities Rent snowshoes ($10 for 4 hours) and go for a guided nature walk ($30 for 1/2 day), or try dogsledding through the nature preserve (half day, $70 for adults, $50 for kids).
Don't Miss A trip to Le Scandinave, about 3 miles from the mountain. Sauna for 15 minutes, then jump in the cool outdoor pool or the river.
Buying In Ninety percent of the market is on-mountain condos. Average price is $120,000. Conrad Kubiak, REMAX St.-Jovite (514-425-3338).
Vital Stats Skiable acres: 602. Number of Lifts: 12. Vertical drop: 2,131 feet. Average annual snowfall: 150 inches. Lift ticket price: $39. Season pass price: $670. Call (888) 736-5268, or visit www.tremblant.ca.
FYI All prices are in approximate U.S. dollars. And English-speakers need not worry about the language barrier in Quebec. Even if you're not bilingual, most locals are.