Everything I Wish I Knew Before Skiing Stratton For The First Time

Many skiers like to complain that skiing on the East Coast lacks soul. Sure, there’s a distinct lack of Bavarian-style architecture that dots the bases of major resorts or fancy airport transfers that allow you to fly and ski on the same day. But to say the East Coast lacks the soul of skiing is only for those not in the know. And besides, doesn’t setting an edge on boilerplate ice make you a better skier anyway?

You’ve probably heard of Stratton if you’re searching for legit ski town ambience East of the Rockies. It’s large for the East Coast (relatively speaking) and completely average, if not small, compared to the behemoths further west. If you’re drawn to East Coast charm—think Gothic-style churches with Palladian windows and the inviting scent of fresh maple syrup—Stratton is as soulful as it gets.

The Mountain

You don’t ski Stratton for three-mile-long groomers or death-defying drops, but if you think Stratton is just a little town hill, think again; this peak bites back.

With 99 marked trails, glades, (that’s tree skiing for all you West Coasters), and five terrain parks, Stratton is nothing to scoff at. Of those trails, 40 percent are for beginners, 35 percent are intermediate, 16 percent advanced, and nine percent are for experts. With 14 lifts to get you exactly where you need to be, there is no shortage of places to explore at Stratton. The mountain is unlimited on every level of Ikon Pass, and window ticket prices start at $118 for adults and $95 for children.

       Keep Reading: Everything I Wish I Knew Before Skiing at Steamboat

With its location in southern Vermont, Stratton attracts large crowds from Boston and New York City, which are a three- and four-and-a-half-hour drive, respectively. Because of this, you can expect a lot of beginners who are still learning to get their ski legs under them, along with plenty of hard-charging weekend warrior types. Weekends at Stratton can get busy, especially when the snow—characteristically unpredictable in the East—falls in abundance. Visit mid-week if you can. You’ll have the mountain to yourself and the freedom to explore at your own pace.

On my first ski trip to Stratton, I brought along my most trusted and readily available ski partner: my newly retired father. On a crisp Tuesday morning in February, we set out from the North Shore of Long Island. As we left home, doubts lingered about what conditions awaited us. We had been checking the conditions religiously for a few days. We knew there would be enough coverage to ski, but heading out without any new snow in the forecast is always slightly unappealing. Along the drive, I kept testing to see how cold it was outside by putting my hand on the passenger window, and by the time we got to East Arlington, Vermont, about 45 minutes from Stratton, there was finally snow on the ground, albeit, not a lot.

But here’s the thing—and West Coasters, stick with me—Stratton makes snow, and they’re pretty good at it. Back when the resort opened in 1961, they had all the natural stuff, but now, they’ve learned not to rely on it as much. The ski area receives a little over 180 inches a year, and the manmade snow is good. It was so good when I visited that we skied bell-to-bell, which is a significant feat when the resort is empty. (My Dad has never been a fan of a leisurely lunch, and this was no time for a change of heart.)

Having had plenty of time to ski the resort, narrowing down our favorite runs was hard. An obvious contender was the Lower Wanderer run, where we got a full dose of Vermont charm by skiing under a red-covered bridge (surprisingly, there was no Ben & Jerry’s scoop or maple syrup at the end).

We didn’t have any crowds to contend with, but if you want to break away from the base area, skirt skier’s left and lap the Sunrise Express 6 lift. Ski the glades through Eclipse, a spicy blue, or get schooled by your father in Big Ben Terrain Park.

But no trip to Stratton is complete without testing your skills on a marked race course. Take the Snow Bowl Express 4 up to the top, take Get My Drift to Upper Slalom Glade, and try your hand at the World Cup Race Course on World Cup. 

The Town 

Stratton looks and feels different from any resort on the West Coast, and that’s a good thing. At the base of the resort is a village with everything you’ll need, including bars, restaurants, gear shops, and places to lay your head. If you’re looking for a bit more, about 40 minutes down the winding mountain road is Manchester, with plenty more places to stay, restaurants, and outlet shops in case you forgot your Tumi suitcase or need a new Vermont-made flannel.

Getting There

My party of two took a little Northeast road trip, driving from Long Island to Stratton. It took us just about four and a half hours. Stratton is about a three-hour drive from Boston and Providence. Most skiers arrive by car, but if you need to fly, look to Boston over New York City and save yourself a few hours.

Where To Stay

Wanting to stay closer to Manchester, we lodged at the Toll Road Inn, a retro hotel from the same era as Stratton’s debut in the early 1960s but with a fresh modern makeover. The hotel has everything a skier needs: a large room with a comfortable bed and a decent breakfast. Rates start around $140 per night. It’s also a short drive to the town of Manchester, so you can grab coffee in the morning or dinner in the evening.

If you’re looking to stay in Stratton Village, there are a few options that will leave you mere steps from the lifts, plus private parking. The Landmark in Stratton Commons offers condos for groups of up to four. You don’t have to look too hard to find The Landmark; just look for the iconic Northeast Clocktower, and you’re right there. Call directly for rates and availability.

Just across Village Square is The Black Bear Lodge. A more traditional hotel-style accommodation, the Black Bear is an homage to Stratton’s icon (who will greet you at the top of the mountain summit). A big pro to staying at The Black Bear is access to a ski shuttle and an ever-important hot tub. Rates hover around $200 a night for a studio.

Long Trail House is another popular option due its roomy studio through three-bedroom units as well as a huge five-bedroom penthouse. The outdoor pool and hot tub is located on the heated patio, and there’s also a sauna for keeping muscles limber between ski days.

Where To Eat 

Stratton offers plenty of dining options in the village, on the mountain, and in Manchester. We grabbed coffee and breakfast at The Works Cafe in Manchester, which offers more than just your average bagel sandwich (although they do have plenty of those as well). In need of something quick and open late, we grabbed slices from Manchester House of Pizza. For cozy Italian food that will warm you from within, check out Mystic Restaurant, which makes fresh pasta nightly.

Where To Après

Looking for some local Vermont craft brews? (Of course you are.) Look no further than the aptly named Bar 802, the area code for Stratton. Bundle up and sit outside in the heart of Stratton Village or inside in their cozy dining room. In addition to grabbing drinks, you can snag some Tex-Mex-inspired food.

Another spot for enjoying a local craft beer (you’re in Vermont, after all) is the über cozy Fire Tower Restaurant—named for the fire towers that dot the surrounding mountain peaks. They also have a full page of housemade cocktails with creative twists on favorites like the Chai Tai, a spiced take on a tropical favorite, or a Double Black Espresso Martini, and with a Village Square location, you can even clomp over in your boots.

Side Quests

Neighboring mountains make for easy add-ons to a trip to Stratton. Visit Stratton’s affable neighbor just about a 30-minute drive away, Bromley Mountain. Visitors are treated to the Northeast’s best attempt at bluebird days, as Bromley is the only resort in the region that faces south. Bromley is smaller than Stratton, but when it comes to terrain variety it’s equal opportunity for everyone—the slopes are evenly split three ways between beginner, intermediate, and expert.

You can also ski at the Northeast’s largest resort, Killington Resort. The fellow Ikon Pass resort has 155 runs and 21 lifts. It’s also only a little over an hour’s drive from Stratton.

If you’re looking for a workout with with great views, check out Prospect Mountain Ski Resort, about 50 minutes away. Prospect Mountain is an abandoned downhill resort turned cross-country center. Tickets are inexpensive—they started at $25 for adults last season—and there are over 30 kilometers of groomed trails, so you can be sure you’ve earned your après.

What I’d Do Differently

In hindsight, almost nothing. Skiing Stratton during the week was a huge win, and I’d encourage all to do the same (even if you need to fake sickness to get out of work). Since the resort has such a large influx of skiers and a relatively smaller base area, I imagine there can be a bit of a bottleneck during popular ski weekends. One thing to note is restaurants close on the earlier side in Manchester so if you’re hanging out and enjoying an après-ski cocktail, keep track of time.

Worth a Return Visit?

Absolutely, yes! Stratton brought out the best of Vermont in a cozy, wholesome, and maple-syrup-scented way. I love how easy it was to drive to, and it made the perfect mid-week winter getaway.