Heart and Stowe: SIGNPOST
Travel East
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Stowe Mountain Resort
480 skiable acres; 2,360 vertical feet; 333 annual inches; 73 percent snowmaking coverage; 48 trails; 12 lifts (including one gondola, two high-speed quads, two triples). Tickets: 2004-2005 single-day rates had not been announced as of press time. Last year’s prices were: adults $62 weekends/weekdays, $64 holidays; juniors (6-12) and seniors (65 and older) $49/$50.
Lodging
The Stoweflake is the crème of the spa scene, offering 120 restorative treatments, luxury lodging and fine dining ($135-$435; 800-253-2232; stoweflake.com). The Grey Fox Inn has rooms for all occasions, from cozy singles to family-friendly condos ($81-$263; 800-544-8454; stowegreyfoxinn.com). Two Dog Lodge welcomes skiers as well as dogs and is appropriately appointed with the canine-inspired work of well-known Vermont artist Stephen Huneck ($59-$199; 800-339-2364; twodoglodge.com).
Dining
At Blue Moon Café, in the heart of the village, creative cuisine comes with a side of small town charm (entrees $16-$26; 802-253-7006). The locals line up early at Gracie’s, famous for its steaks and burgers ($7-$25; 802-253-8741). Red Basil specializes in authentic Thai cuisine, with tasteful décor to match ($14-$22; 802-253-4478)
Après
The Matterhorn, Stowe’s rowdiest après stop, is also the first one you come to on your way back down the Mountain Road. The Shed is a Stowe classic, famous for its delicious burgers, free popcorn and beer brewed on premises. The Rusty Nail is the biggest-OK, only-nightclub, drawing quality rock and R&B acts to the Green Mountains.
Getting There From Boston (three-and-a-half hours): Take I-93 north to Concord, N.H., then I-89 north to Exit 10 (Stowe/Waterbury). Go north on Route 100; the village of Stowe is 11 miles. From New York City (six hours): Take I-95 north to New Haven, Conn., then I-91 north to White River Junction, Vt. Go north on I- 89 and proceed as above. From Stowe Village, the ski area is about six miles north on Route 108 (The Mountain Road).
Info Central reservations: 800-247-8693; ski area: 800-253-4754 or 802-253-3000; snow report: 802-253-3600; stowe.com or gostowe.com
DECEMBER 2004